was perceptible in more ways than one. Before
we had travelled a mile we beheld a proof of this subjugated state in
the person of a Cossack "en plein costume," with two narrow, horizontal
eyes placed at the top of his forehead, bespeaking his Tartar origin.
Upon a log of timber twenty more were sitting smoking. The Russian
headquarters are at Maubeuge, but the Cossacks are scattered all over
the frontier villages and are seen everywhere. We fell in with at least
a hundred. They are very quiet and much liked by the people. The Duke of
Wellington, when returning to Valenciennes a few days ago from Maubeuge,
was escorted by a party of these gipsy guards.

On approaching Valenciennes other tokens of conquest appeared. A
clean-looking inn, with a smart garden in Islington style, presented
itself, bearing a sign with an English name containing the additional
intelligence that London Porter and Rum, Gin, and Brandy were all there,
and to be had.

Over many a window we saw a good John Bull board with "Spirituous
Liquors Sold Here" inscribed thereon in broad British characters, unlike
the "Spiritual Lickers" in the miserable letters upon the signboards at
Ostend. As to Valenciennes, nothing was French but the houses and Inns.
The visible population were red-coated soldiers, and it was impossible
not to fancy that our journey was a dream, and that we had in fact
re-opened our eyes in England.

Of hornworks, demi-lunes, and ravelines I shall speak to your Papa when
I fight my battle once again in the Armchair at the Park or at
Winnington; enough for you to know that we all breakfasted with Sir
Thomas Brisbane, a very superior man and a great astronomer, and tho'
brave as a lion, seems to prefer looking at la Pleine lune in the
heavens than the host of demi-lunes with which he is surrounded in his
present quarters. At Cambray Sir George Scovell[116] had most kindly
secured us lodgings at Sir Lowry Cole's[117] house, which we had all to
ourselves, as the General was in England. Where the French people live
it is not easy to guess, for all the best houses are taken by British
Officers. They receive a billet which entitles them to certain rooms,
and generally they induce the possessor to decamp altogether by giving
him a small rent for the remainder. We found Colonel Egerton, who
married a Miss Tomkinson, in the garrison. We dined with them and the
Scovell, and were received with the utmost kindness and attention by
all. Colonel P