Ba, ba," a very
expressive mode of communicating disapprobation, but seeing Trueman was
of a different opinion, he ceased from his "Ba, ba," and stepping
towards him made him a low bow. About 6 o'clock we arrived at Bruges, or
rather to the wharf from whence passengers betake themselves and
portmanteaux to barrows and sledges. As we approached our Band resumed
their musical exertions. A crowd assembled to welcome our arrival, Gigs,
coaches (such coaches!!), Horsemen (such Horsemen!!), were parading.
Such a light with such a rainbow shone upon such an avenue and such
picturesque gate!! Our baggage filled a car drawn by 3 stout men; and we
all followed in the rear.... Bruges is a town affording five or six
volumes of sketches; towers, roofs, gable ends, bridges--all in
succession called for exclusive admiration. It was decided that we
should rise at 4, breakfast at 6, and see all that was possible before
9, when we were to continue our route to Ghent. At 3 o'clock I was
prepared, but a steady rain forced me reluctantly to bed again, but we
did breakfast at 6, and did pick up two or three sketches.

_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley._

BRUSSELS, _June 18, 1816_.

[Illustration: FRENCH CABRIOLET.

_To face p. 260._]

On the 18th of June, how can I begin with any other subject than
Waterloo?... At 8 this morning we mounted our Cabriolets for Waterloo.
Donald put on his Waterloo medal for the first time, and a French shirt
he got in the spoils, and a cravat of an officer who was killed, and I
wrapped myself in his Waterloo cloak, and we all felt the additional
sensation which the anniversary of the day produced on everybody. It
brought the comparison of the past and present day more perfectly home.
Donald was ready with his recollections every minute of the day, what
had been his occupation or his feeling. The forest of Soignies is a fine
approach to the field of battle--dark, damp, and melancholy. If you had
heard nothing about it, you could hardly help feeling, in passing
through it, that you would not like to cross it alone. There are no fine
trees, but the extent and depth of wood gives it all the effect of a
fine one, and an effect particularly suited to the associations
connected with it. The road--a narrow pavement in the middle with black
mud on each side--looks as if it had never felt a ray of sun, and from
its state to-day gave me a good idea of what it must have been.
Sometimes the road is raised