eld a Presbyterian Church. I asked him if Napoleon
troubled the English settlers during the war. He said that, provided
they conformed quickly to the laws and regulations, they experienced no
persecution. Upon my asking if it was at all necessary to conceal his
extraction, he exclaimed, "What, conceal my extraction, deny my country?
Not for all the Emperors in the world. No, I have too much conscience
and independence. To be sure, I was obliged by law to pray for the
health and prosperity of Buonaparte every Sunday. But what signified
that? God Almighty understood very well what I meant, and that I
heartily wished his death all the time." By long residence in Holland,
he had adopted a good portion of Dutch impenetrability and slowness. He
assured us nothing short of a week could give us the least chance of
seeing the curiosities of Amsterdam, and when I told him that we were
(according to our common custom of early rising) to be in North Holland
by 6 o'clock in the morning, and had seen all by 11 o'clock which
occupies a Dutchman's whole day, and gave him a few instances of our
mode of operation, he threw himself back, raised his cocked hat to
examine us more thoroughly, put his arms akimbo and exclaimed, "How do
you support human nature. It must expire under such fatigue," and I
found it quite impossible to convince him that my health for the last
month had been infinitely better than usual. But, after all, I fear you
will find me growing old. I had a compliment paid to my grey hairs, in
coming from Utrecht, which must be mentioned. The fat Alchymist, above
mentioned, squeezed himself into Edward's place in the Diligence; on
remonstrating to a young Dutch gentleman who spoke French, he replied,
"Que c'etait vraiment impoli mais que c'etait un viellard a qui on
devait ceder quelque chose, et je vous assure, Monsieur, comme vous etes
aussi un peu age si vous aviez pris ma place je vous l'aurais cede." In
Amsterdam there is little to be seen but the Palais, in which there is a
splendid collection of Flemish pictures--two or three of the finest of
Rembrandt--and without exception the most splendid room I have seen in
Europe. It is the great Hall of audience; King Louis[92] has fitted up
everything in grand style. We went over what the Dutchmen cry up as an
object which it would be unpardonable not to see--the Felix meritus, a
sort of Lecture room with some wretched museums attached. I found
nothing to interest me but a capit