e to mention heat as the cause of real inconvenience,
you may consider it such as would have thrown you into a fever. Enough
of our personal sufferings, which you may easily conceive have been few
indeed if the above is worth recording....
I left Aix la Chapelle with no great regret. The Country round it is
pretty, much resembling Kent, but as a town or watering-place it has
nothing to recommend but its gambling-table. I expected to have found a
museum of human nature and national character.--Tables d'hotes crowded
with the best bred of all countries, but just the reverse. There were
Tables d'hote's at the minor Inns tolerably frequented, but none at the
most fashionable; there the guests lived by themselves. There is no
point of rendezvous, no promenade, no Assembly room, where the
concentrated world may be seen. Like Swedenborgh's theory of living in
the midst of invisible spirits, so at Aix la Chapelle (unless time and
opportunity may have thrown him into private circles) a traveller may be
surrounded by Princes and Potentates without knowing or benefiting by
their illustrious presence; the Glenbervies made the same complaint.
From Aix to Liege we had the company of a very pleasant, well-informed
citizen of Liege (indeed, all the military classes in Germany seem well
informed), who in pathetic terms lamented his lot. In the cutting up of
this grand continental dish Prussia has had Benjamin's mess in this part
of the country. We have his troops, with few exceptions, forming a
cordon within the Rhine from Saarbruck to Liege, and they are by no
means popular. We have clothed them, and all the people feed them,
besides having been called upon for contributions. It is flattering to
see the high respect shown to the British character, which increases as
opportunities occur of observing its effects. If we were like the people
of Bruxelles (said our Liegeois) all would be well; we should rejoice in
having a garrison. British troops, so far from exacting contributions or
demanding free quarters, pay for everything, are beloved by the people,
and money circulates, whereas under the Prussian government we pay all,
are put to all manner of inconvenience, and receive neither thanks nor
satisfaction. They appear to have been peculiarly unfortunate in all
wars. Poor Liege has received a thump from one, a kick from another, and
been robbed by a third. The Austrians have burnt their Suburbs, the
Republicans sold their national and ec
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