e time of night every
half-hour, and for a watchman who, by way of murdering the little sleep
which had survived the sound of the Bell, sounded with all his might a
cow-horn, and then, as if perfectly satisfied that he had awaked every
soul in the village, bawled out the hour and retired, leaving them just
time to fall asleep again before the half-hour called for a repetition
of his exertions.
Every evening about dusk, in our course down the river, a curious
Phenomenon presented itself which to me, as an Entomologist, had
peculiar charms. We were surrounded as far as the eye could reach with
what appeared to be a fall of snow, but which, in fact, was a cloud of
beautiful white Ephemera just emerged from their Chrysalis state to
flutter away in their perfection for one or two hours before their
death. I mention this circumstance now, whilst it is fresh in my memory,
for I really should hesitate in relating it before company for fear of
being accused of traveller's stories. I had heard of them before, and
was therefore not so much surprised, though the infinite number was
truly astonishing.
On Saturday, 23rd, we dined and spent an hour or two in Coblentz, which,
situated at the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine, is strongly
fortified towards the land. There is little worth notice in the town
except a Stone fountain erected by Napoleon, from the pipes of which run
the united streams of the two rivers. Upon these are carved in large
letters the two following inscriptions, the one immediately below the
other in characters precisely similar:--
A.N. MDCCCXII.
Memorable par la Campagne
Contre les Russes
Sous la Prefecture de Jules Dragon.
* * * * *
Vu et approuve par nous
Commandant Russe de la ville de Coblentz
Le Ier. Janvier 1814.
At Coblentz as well as at Cologne the Rhine is passed by a flying
bridge--_i.e._, a large boat moored to several other smaller ones, whose
only use is to keep the large one steady. It swings from bank to bank,
according as the mooring line is placed on one side or the other, merely
by the action of the current producing a sort of compound motion.
Coblentz is completely commanded by the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, a
rock as high as Dover, the summit and side covered with the ruins of the
fortress which the French blew up. The people in this country are pretty
well satisfied with the change of affairs. They led
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