re citadel, numerous
minarets, and the palace of the princes of bygone days towering
above the old town, where the houses look as if they were piled the
one above the other--the new or Russian quarter being at the base,
and lining the shore of the pretty little bay. Modern Baku contains
some handsome residences and well-paved streets, the principal
being the busy quay, constructed of massive blocks of greystone
masonry, where the naphtha, the wealth of Baku, is embarked for
transport to the interior of Russia by the Volga, or for conveyance
across the Caspian to Central Asia. Numerous refineries, worth
inspecting, at the west end of Baku compose the Black Town, so
called from its begrimed condition, and from being ever enveloped
in clouds of the densest smoke. Since a remote period has this
neighbourhood been considered holy by fire-worshippers, because
of the many naphtha springs that were constantly burning, some
even perpetually; indeed, the fires at Surakan, a suburb of Baku,
continued to be guarded by fire-worshippers from Yezd in Persia,
and even from India, until, with the connivance of the government,
they were hustled away some ten years ago by the increasing number
of speculators engaged in a trade which has now completely driven
out of the market all American produce.

In Daghestan is Gunib, the last stronghold of the brave Shamyl,
whom the strength of Russia was unequal to subdue during the space
of thirty years. "Do the Russians say that they are numerous as
the grains of sand? Then are we the waves that will carry away
that sand," said the great Tartar chief addressing the numerous
tribes who placed themselves under his leadership to repel the
invader. The mountaineers posted themselves on the heights, and,
hidden by trees, shot down their enemies in scores as they advanced
in column up the narrow defiles.

The great thoroughfare between Transcaucasia and Russia is from
Tiflis to Vladikavkaz, the terminus of the Moscow-Rostof railway, by
way of the Dariel road, a stupendous engineering success completed
in the reign of Nicholas. This road winds over a pass 7,977 feet
above the sea, and is kept in repair and clear for traffic in winter
by the Ossets, whose country it traverses, in return for which
service they are exempt from all taxes.

When the traveller will have completed the journey from Tiflis
to Vladikavkaz, he will have arrived at the depot and point of
transit for all goods brought by rail fro