the ancient Khytaea, the residence of AEtes; at any rate a city
of great antiquity, beautifully situated on the banks of the Rion.

Between Kutais and Tiflis is the Pass of Suram, at an altitude
of three thousand and twenty-seven feet, over which are laid the
lines of rail by gradients of one in twenty-two feet over a distance
of about eight miles; a triumph of engineering skill due, as is
the entire railway, to British capital and enterprise. Beyond this
Pass the train stops at Gori, situated at the limits of a glorious
plain, watered by the Kur and its tributaries. Since fairly good
accommodation is obtainable, it were well to halt at this station for
the purpose of visiting the unique rock-cut town, Uplytztzykhe, some
eight miles off. Here is a town--there can be no other designation for
it--consisting of public edifices--if such a term may be employed--of
large habitations, presumably for the great, smaller dwellings
for others, each being conveniently divided, and having doorways,
openings for light, and partitions, while many are ornamented with
cornices, mouldings, beams and pillars. The groups are separated
by streets and lanes, and grooves have been cut, unquestionably
for water-courses, and yet the whole has been entirely hewn and
shaped out of the solid rock. Tradition is replete with incidents
in the history of these remarkable excavations, but faithful
historiographers have hitherto refrained from endorsing any of the
tales that have been handed down by romancers of Georgia.

Tiflis, the chief seat of Government and residence of the
Governor-General, having a population of about one hundred thousand
souls, is unpleasantly situated between ranges of perfectly barren
hills, and but for the River Kur, on the banks of which it is built,
would be almost uninhabitable. Having driven through the suburbs
on his way from the railway terminus, the traveller crosses the
Kur over the Woronzoff Bridge, which at once brings him to the
principal street, where he passes in succession the public gardens,
gymnasium, law-courts, palace of the Governor-General, the main
guard-house, public library, museum, etc.; by which time he will
have reached Palace Street and Erivan Square, where are situated
the best hotels and restaurants, and the National Theatre. From the
square three main thoroughfares lead to as many separate quarters,
viz.: the European, where the wealthy live in well-built houses of
elegant construction; the na