SE INSTITUTIONS 298

INDEX 315

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

"IN CHURCH." SHOWING THE MANTILLA AND VELO _Frontispiece_

PEASANTS 2

A CORNER IN OLD MADRID 8

SEVILLE CIGARRERA 20

PEASANTS 20

VALENCIANOS 26

THE WATER TRIBUNAL IN VALENCIA. SHOWING VALENCIAN COSTUMES 34

PAST WORK 50

KNIFE-GRINDER 50

OUTSIDE THE PLAZA DE TOROS, MADRID 78

BUEYES RESTING 94

IN THE WOODS AT LA GRANJA 104

PLAZA DE TOROS. PICADOR CAUGHT BY THE BULL 120

PLAZA DE TOROS. THE PROCESSION 124

DRAGGING OUT THE DEAD BULL 126

THE ESCURIAL 140

A WEDDING PARTY IN ESTREMADURA 170

A COUNTRY CABIN IN GALICIA 292

SPANISH LIFE IN TOWN AND COUNTRY

CHAPTER I

LAND AND PEOPLE

Only in comparatively late years has the Iberian Continent been added to
the happy hunting-grounds of the ordinary British and American tourist,
and somewhat of a check arose after the outbreak of the war with
America. To the other wonderful legends which gather round this romantic
country, and are spread abroad, unabashed and uncontradicted, was added
one more, to the effect that so strong a feeling existed on the part of
the populace against Americans, that it was unsafe for English-speaking
visitors to travel there. Nothing is farther from the truth; there is no
hatred of American or English, and, if there had been, they little know
the innate courtesy of the Spanish people, who fear insult that is not
due to the overbearing manners of the tourist himself.

To-day, however, eve