rrying mules, as they dashed round
precipitous corners, dangerous enough in broad daylight. If one of the
animals chanced to fall, it was dragged by its companions to the bottom
of the gorge, where it would get up, shake itself, and prepare to tear
up the next ascent as if nothing had happened.

A good idea could be formed of these hardy mountaineers in passing
through their village homes. They are tall and good-looking, and seem to
be simply overflowing with animal spirits. If it chanced to be on a
Sunday afternoon, the priest, with his _sotana_ tucked up round his
waist, would be found playing the national game of _pelota_ with his
flock, using the blank wall of the church as a court.

One is apt to forget that Old Castile is one of the provinces having a
northern seaboard. The inhabitants of this borderland are, to judge by
appearance, superior to the people of the plains, who certainly strike
the casual observer as being dirty and somewhat dull. The Castilian and
Aragonese, however, may be said to constitute the heart of the nation.
Leon and Estremadura form a part of the same raised plateau, but their
people are very different. In speaking of the national characteristics,
one must be taken to mean, not by any means the Madrileno, but the
countrymen, whose homes are not to be judged by the _posadas_, or inns,
which exist mainly for the muleteer and his animals, and are neither
clean nor savoury.

"All the forces of Europe would not be sufficient to subdue the
Castiles--_with the people against it_," was Peterborough's remark, and
our Iron Duke never despaired "while the country was with him." He bore
with the generals and the _Juntas_ of the upper classes, in spite of his
indignation against them, and, "cheered by the _people's support_," as
Napier says, carried out his campaign of victory.

The ancient qualities of which the Castilians are proud are _gravedad,
lealtad, y amor de Dios_--"dignity, loyalty, and love of God." No wonder
that when the nation arises, it carries a matter through.

Estremadura, after the expulsion of the Moors, in whose days it was a
fruitful garden, seems to have been forgotten by the rest of Spain; it
became the pasturage for the wandering flocks of merino sheep, the
direct descendants of the Bedouin herds, and of the pigs, which almost
overrun it. Yet the remains of the Romans in Estremadura are the most
interesting in Spain, and bear witness to the flourishing condition of
the prov