d into a great number of small streams, this scene is
repeated on the edge of each one, while the expanse of sand which
occupies the centre of what ought to be the river-bed is one forest of
clothes-props, with all the wash of Madrid hanging on the lines. On the
banks the children, in the intervals of school, are playing bull-fights,
or some of their innumerable dancing and singing games; the women are
one and all performing the gradual descent of the gamut with variations
called singing; and above all is the glorious sun, transfiguring all
things, and throwing deep, purple shadows from the high plane-trees
along the banks.

The road which runs along the bank of the Manzanares, at the farther
side from Madrid, is a revelation to those who only know the plains
through which the railway from the north passes, and which for the
greater part of the year, except when the crops are growing, are quite
as arid as we are accustomed to suppose. On the left lies the Casa de
Campo, an immense extent of park, containing, on the high ground, some
splendid specimens of the Scotch fir, and, in more sheltered spots,
groves of beech, avenues of plane, and masses of the dark-leaved ilex,
which grows to great perfection in this climate. The "Florida," another
of the royal properties, lies to the right, and a splendid road shaded
by majestic trees, and with wide, grassy margins, stretches away to the
village of El Pardillo, where Longfellow established his quarters, and
which he describes in his _Outre Mer_, and from that on to the forest,
or whatever you may call it, of El Pardo, where there is a royal
residence now but seldom used, you may ride for many hours and still
find yourself in this wild park, which many of the inhabitants of Madrid
have never seen. Here one can realise a little how the city may have
once been a hunting lodge of the Kings, as we are told. The Pardo may be
reached through the Casa de Campo, a gate at the extreme end of the
principal drive leading into the forest.

Up on the high ground of the Casa de Campo there is a splendid view of
Madrid, with the Palace crowning the steep bluff overhanging the
Manzanares. It was in the "country house" itself, near the gate, that
our "Baby Charles" is said to have climbed the high wall of the
courtyard to get a glimpse of the Infanta whom he hoped to make his
wife. When I knew the place intimately, on the very highest part of the
Park was a large enclosure of the wild forest, r