constant scene of life and
gaiety. Now and then would come the deep clang of the huge bell of the
draught oxen, drawing their Old-World carts, often with solid discs of
wood for wheels, while the women of the lower class sported their
brilliantly embroidered Manila shawls, chattered, and fluttered their
gaily-coloured fans just like the other senoritas. Mantillas, even then,
were only to be seen on old ladies; but the smart little _velo_
coquettishly fastened with a natural flower adorned all the young
girls--French millinery, which never suits a Spanish face, being kept
for the evening _paseo_. It is a pity these national costumes have gone
out of fashion. A Spanish girl with _velo_ and fan is something quite
superior to the same fascinating young person dressed after the style of
Paris--with a difference; for there is always a difference.

[Illustration: OUTSIDE THE PLAZA DE TOROS, MADRID]

Madrid, in fact, is becoming cosmopolitan, and is little to be
distinguished from other capitals, except in the _barrios bajos_ on the
national _fiestas_, and wherever the country people, as distinguished
from the Madrid work-people, congregate. These last are rapidly losing
all picturesqueness, dressing just as the workers in any other capital
dress. They are, perhaps, still no less _gatos_ (cats), those of them at
least who have had the honour of being born in La Corte, this being the
name given them by their fellow country-people.

If it be meant as a term of reproach, the Madrileno has an excellent
answer in giving the history of its origin. In the reign of Alfonso VI.,
during one of the many war-like operations of this King, he wished to
take an important and difficult fortress, and had collected all his
forces to attack it--the Madrilenos alone were late; it was, in fact,
only the day before the assault was to take place that they arrived upon
the scene. The King was furious, and when their leader approached his
Majesty to know where the troops were to bivouac for the night, he
replied that there was no room in his camp for laggards; pointing to the
enemy's fortress, he added: "_There_ will be found plenty of lodging for
those who come too late for any other." Saluting his Majesty very
courteously, the soldier withdrew, understanding thoroughly the indirect
sneer at the valour of his troops; he went back to his regiment,
summoned his officers and men, and repeated to them the King's word. One
and all agreed that they would