icipation of scenes to be revisited. A
week, however, was too short a time in which to cover the ground, but by
persistent effort on our part much was accomplished.
Having headquarters at Shepheard's Hotel--with its foreign arrangement
of rooms and furnishings, together with its gayly attired attendants,
many of them costumed in red, yellow, green, or blue silk trimmed with
gilt, and wearing silk turbans to match--gave us at once an Oriental
environment. The central location of the building, with the opportunity,
also, which the wide terrace afforded guests for making observations,
offered us an immediate insight into the unique life of the city. The
venders of fruit, flowers, postal cards, and souvenirs formed a
foreground of many colors, while beyond was an unceasing flow of motley
carriages, native vehicles, carts, donkeys, and camels, and sometimes
two resplendent outriders (called "Sikhs"), on fine chargers, heralded
the approach of some dignitary,--a custom which is, however, dying out.
The most novel sight which came to our notice was a wedding procession,
the bride being ever carefully concealed by silken curtains thrown over
either a carriage or a peculiarly constructed litter borne by two
camels, one at the front and one at the back; a band of music preceded,
followed by vehicles of many different kinds containing members of the
bridal party, all _en route_ for the bride's home.
It must be remembered that Cairo, while in one sense a modern city,
presents many clearly defined mediaeval phases; this is particularly true
throughout its native quarters, as exemplified in streets and bazars in
the vicinity of the Nile, and in its old-time mosques; in this
connection I would emphasize the bazars, both Turkish and Arabic. Some
of the old irregular thoroughfares on which the bazars are situated
radiate from the wider and more important Muski; then, again, there are
narrower alley-like streets, a veritable tangle! The bazars everywhere
are similarly constructed, but vary in size and importance; they are
box-like in form, from four to six feet in width, and six to eight feet
in height, and are raised one or two feet from the ground, with three
sides enclosed and the fourth open to the street by day, but at night
closed, the fourth wall sliding into place like a folding door.
Here is usually to be found, for a certain distance, but one kind of
goods, be it slippers, brass-work, or embroideries, alternating with
ea
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