hout expression; her voice never
varies, it flows on, and on, and on, like a great resistless river. Four
young artisans come clamping along in their hob-nailed boots, and seating
themselves at one of the rude wooden tables, call for beer. With their
arms round the waist of the utterly indifferent Fraulein, they shout and
laugh and sing. Nearly all the young folks here are laughing--looking
forward to life. All the old folks are talking, remembering it.

What grand pictures some of these old, seared faces round us would make,
if a man could only paint them--paint all that is in them, all the
tragedy--and comedy that the great playwright, Life, has written upon the
withered skins! Joys and sorrows, sordid hopes and fears, child-like
strivings to be good, mean selfishness and grand unselfishness, have
helped to fashion these old wrinkled faces. The curves of cunning and
kindliness lurk round these fading eyes. The lines of greed hover about
these bloodless lips, that have so often been tight-pressed in patient
heroism.

SUNDAY, 25TH--CONTINUED

We Dine.--A Curious Dish.--"A Feeling of Sadness Comes O'er Me."--The
German Cigar.--The Handsomest Match in Europe.--"How Easy 'tis for
Friends to Drift Apart," especially in a place like Munich Railway
Station.--The Victim of Fate.--A Faithful Bradshaw.--Among the
Mountains.--Prince and Pauper.--A Modern Romance.--Arrival at
Oberau.--Wise and Foolish Pilgrims.--An Interesting Drive.--Ettal and its
Monastery.--We Reach the Goal of our Pilgrimage.

At one o'clock we turned into a restaurant for dinner. The Germans
themselves always dine in the middle of the day, and a very substantial
meal they make of it. At the hotels frequented by tourists _table
d'hote_ is, during the season, fixed for about six or seven, but this is
only done to meet the views of foreign customers.

I mention that we had dinner, not because I think that the information
will prove exciting to the reader, but because I wish to warn my
countrymen, travelling in Germany, against undue indulgence in Liptauer
cheese.

I am fond of cheese, and of trying new varieties of cheese; so that when
I looked down the cheese department of the bill of fare, and came across
"liptauer garnit," an article of diet I had never before heard of, I
determined to sample it.

It was not a tempting-looking cheese. It was an unhealthy, sad-looking
cheese. It looked like a cheese that had seen trouble. In appeara