of the
ancestors. The _barih_ was only capable of communicating with a _barih's_
ancestors.

CHAPTER XVII

The River Das Garcas--Majestic Scenery

I WENT to call on the Salesian Fathers. Between my camp and the river Das
Garcas, on the right bank of which the colony stood, there was a great
dome of red volcanic rock with many loose boulders such as we had seen
for the last three days of our journey. The river was swift and deep. The
colony was on the opposite side of the water. We shouted until an Indian
appeared and took us across in a rickety canoe belonging to the friars,
which he paddled with the stalk of a palm-leaf.

The Salesians were remarkable people, and should be an example to many
other missionaries. Wherever they went they did not trouble much about
making converts. They taught the natives instead how to work the soil and
how to make all kinds of articles which might or might not be useful to
them as they became more civilized. The chief effort of the monks was to
teach the natives agriculture, from which--charity always begins at
home--the friars themselves were naturally the first to reap the benefit.
At the same time the natives learned, and earned, and were made happy.
They improved their mode of living and were, with great softness and
patience, not only drawn nearer to Catholicism but towards white people
altogether. The Salesians had established on the Rio das Garcas--an
enchanting spot--a beautiful farm on which they grew quantities of Indian
corn, sugar-cane, wheat, and all kinds of vegetables.

Although I am not a Roman Catholic, the Salesians received me very
politely and took the greatest delight in showing me all over the
Mission. It was interesting to note that everybody was working hard. The
Father Superior himself was busy shaping a big table from a huge plank of
hard wood, and nothing could induce him to leave his sweating work--not
even to go and have his meals. Father Colli Agostino was detailed to go
round and explain everything to me.

The Salesians had no trouble with the Indians, whom they found quite
gentle and docile. But they could never be relied upon. One day the
entire tribe would come and help to work the soil with great vigour; the
next day they would all disappear from the neighbourhood and no one knew
where they had gone--sometimes for weeks. They invariably came back,
sooner or later, and, what was more, they were always welcomed back.

Converting them