t ones beyond. In the
south-easterly portion of the depression was a great rocky mass, while
due north another, and higher, conical mount, much higher than all the
others, could be observed.

In the eastern part of the depression a wide circle of big volcanic
boulders--undoubtedly an extinct crater--was to be seen, with huge masses
of spattered yellow lava in large blocks as well as ferruginous rock.
That great depression--taken in its entirety--was subdivided into three
distinct terraces, counting as third the summit of the plateau. A mighty,
deep, impressive chasm, smothered in vegetation, could be observed within
the central crater--in the north-east side of the circle.

The summit of the plateau, varying in elevation from 2,000 ft. to 2,100
ft., on which we were travelling was entirely covered by sand and grey
ashes.

The valley in the depression extended in lovely campos from south-west to
north-east--in fact, as far as the giant table-land which stood majestic
in the distance.

The scene, as we stood on the edge of the plateau, was impressive in its
grandeur, in its silence. In the morning the sky was almost entirely
covered with transparent clouds in scales like a fish. In the afternoon
the sky above changed into horizontal layers of globular clouds, which
stood as still as death. Leaden black globular accumulations covered
one-third of the sky vault, great unshapen masses overhead rendering the
air heavy.

We marched all that day on a deep layer of ashes. On descending from the
plateau we had on our left great clean campos and plentiful _burity_
palms in a slight depression where moisture filtered through. As the
caravan was moving along gaily, a _veado_ (deer) gracefully leapt in
front and, turning its head back two or three times to look at us, ran
before us. Filippe, the negro, in his excitement, gave wild yells which
set the mules stampeding, while green parrots in couples, scared at the
sudden disturbance, flew overhead, adding piercing shrieks to the rapid
tinkling of the mules' bells, the rattling of the baggage on the
pack-saddles, and the shouts of the men trying to stop the excited mules.
All those sudden noises mingled together were quite a change for us,
accustomed to a constant deathly silence.

Before us on the W.N.W.--as we still sank in grey ashes--were two conical
hillocks. In the distance, to the west, two small flat-topped plateaux
rose above the sky-line, and also two hills shaped not