r was to be found, were innumerable _burity_ palms.
It was evident that during the rainy season that plain (elev. 2,350 ft.)
must be entirely under water. In many places it was swampy, even at the
time of my visit. It was most refreshing to the eyes to see such expanses
of lovely green healthy grass. The mules and horses enjoyed it more than
we did, neighing to their hearts' content when we emerged into the great
verdant meadow. They tore away with their teeth at the delicious grass as
they cantered along gaily.

Some of the enjoyment of the delightful scenery was taken away from
me--not only that day, but every day during almost an entire year--owing
to the stupid obstinacy of my men. They carried their magazine rifles
fully loaded--eight cartridges in each--and while marching insisted on
keeping the rifles cocked; they would not hear of keeping them at
safety--so that any extra jerk or a twig of a tree catching the trigger
might cause the weapons to go off at any moment. This would have mattered
little if they had slung their rifles in the usual way, pointing skyward
or else towards the earth. But no-one could never induce a Brazilian to
do things in a sensible way. No, indeed; they must carry their rifles
horizontally upon the shoulder, the muzzles of the nearest weapons always
pointing at me. It was no use remonstrating, as they might perhaps have
misunderstood it as fear. So all I could do was to trust in Providence. I
could not have done better, for Providence indeed watched over me and
protected me on that expedition in a most merciful way--for which I am
truly grateful. On several occasions--as was to be expected from the
careless way in which the weapons were carried--now one rifle then
another went off unexpectedly, and I came mighty near being shot. On
other occasions the mules had narrow escapes. Once a bullet went right
through the hat of one of my men, just missing his head.

In any case, I beg the reader to realize how pleasant it was to have the
muzzle of a loaded rifle, ready to be fired, pointing at you in front for
an average of eight to twelve hours a day for several months. I generally
rode last in the caravan in order to prevent straggling, and also to see
that any baggage which fell off the pack-saddles was recovered. This was
unpleasant in more ways than one. First the clouds of dust raised by the
animals as we marched over the sand and cinders, which filled my eyes,
mouth and nose; then the cons