chists in Brazil. Down with the infamous
oppression and slavery of Europe! Down with kings and emperors! Down with
Europe, the land of oppression and cruelty!" And again: "We in Brazil are
the richest people on earth. We are all millionaires in Brazil. We do not
need foreign charity!"

"Down with foreigners!" answered the chorus of assembled natives.

The railway inspector who had been sent by the Company to accompany me
became scared at the turn matters were taking, and told me, against the
instructions he had received, that I could not now return to the car.
Upon hearing this, my new friends, believing they had me in their power,
renewed their vocal attack.

I remained some time endeavouring to collect my baggage, pretending to
pay no attention whatever to the absurd oratory. To this day I cannot yet
grasp what the oppression of Europe had to do with my wanting to pay for
something I had never had. I then repeated my offer, which was again
refused. With the protection of his strong rear-guard, the Chief of
Police advanced bravely towards me, holding in a suggestive manner with
his right hand the pommel of his revolver in the back pocket of his
trousers. In a tragic manner he exclaimed:

"We will settle this matter, to-morrow."

"We will settle it at once," I placidly replied.

"No, to-morrow," he repeated, with a vicious look.

"Very good: at what time and where?"

"At ten o'clock," he eventually grunted, after I had repeated the above
question four times.

I also politely invited all the others present to come forward if they
had any claims to square. I was quite ready to settle anybody at any time
and anywhere. Perhaps they might get more than they wished.

I departed with my baggage laden on two carriages and a cart, and
eventually found accommodation at an equally filthy hotel near the
station--only the latter place was kept by a humble and honest, decrepit
old woman. I do not know that I have ever spent a more miserable evening
anywhere. I do not mind roughing it in the roughest way possible, but I
have always detested pretentious efforts at civilization of an inferior
kind. Thus I sat having a meal--eggs, beans, rice--all soaked in
_toucinho_ (pork fat) which I detest and loathe. I watched black railway
workmen and porters stuffing themselves with food in a most unappetizing
way, and making disgusting noises of all kinds.

Fortunately I remembered that a friend of mine--a railway contractor, Mr.
Lou