e atheists--old and young, civil and military--again kneeling
on the hard and irregular paving-stones--some had taken the precaution to
spread their handkerchiefs so as not to soil their trousers--and beating
their chests and murmuring prayers, and shaking their heads in sign of
repentance.

Such is the world! The prettiest part of the procession was that formed
by the young girls, all garbed in immaculate white, and with jet-black
hair--masses of it--hanging loose upon their shoulders. The chanting was
musical and the whole affair most impressive.

I had received somewhat of a shock in the morning on passing the
principal church--there were five or six in Goyaz. Spread out upon the
pavement was the life-size wooden figure of our Saviour--which had
evidently long been stored in a damp cellar--much mildewed and left there
in the sun in preparation for the evening performance. The red wig of
real hair, with its crown of thorns, had been removed and was drying upon
a convenient neighbouring shrub! Really, those people of Goyaz were an
amusing mixture of simplicity and superstition.

One great redeeming point of the people of Goyaz was that they were
extremely charitable. They had erected a huge building as a workhouse. It
was entirely supported by charity. A small library had also been
established.

As I have elsewhere stated, I needed for my expedition no less than
thirty men, so that they could, if necessary, carry all my instruments,
cameras, provisions, ammunition, etc., where animals could not get
through.

Fourteen long and tedious days elapsed in Goyaz. No one could be induced
to come. In despair I sent a despatch to the Minister of Agriculture,
asking for the loan of at least four soldiers--whom I should naturally
have paid out of my own pocket, as I had duly explained to the
Presidente, who backed my request. To my regret I received a reply from
the Minister of War saying that at that moment the Government could not
possibly spare four soldiers. It must be said that, although the men of
Goyaz did not shine for their bravery, it was not so with the ladies,
several of whom offered, if necessary, to accompany the expedition and
do, of course, the work of the men. I believe that they meant it.

I have, indeed, the greatest respect and admiration for the noble
self-sacrifice of the women of Goyaz. Devoted mothers and wives, to men
who deserved no devotion at all--nearly all the men had
concubines--gentle, humble