th, and dressed
for a hot day; but the day was resolute not to be hot: a north-east wind
had set in after breakfast, and down went the thermometer from
seventy-nine to forty-five. "Zooks, what a tumble!" as Mister Poll says:
all the time too the sky was cloudless, and the sun shining most
treacherously. I wasn't to be done, however; so, after an hour, jumped
again into my broad-cloth for comfort.

During my first week here I occupied private apartments,--which may be
had at every hotel, by the way,--and being in company with a friend, we
had our meals at our own hours, all of which were excellent and well
served, with wines most unexceptionable. My friend leaving me, however,
I took the advice of my good host, Mr. Head, and, quitting my sulky
solitude, joined the public table,--a change I had every reason to be
satisfied with, since, however, unpleasant the bustle occasioned by a
hundred or a hundred and fifty persons dining _ensemble_, no such
objection can apply here, where the guests rarely exceed twenty-five or
thirty, including from time to time men of the first rank and
intelligence in the States. This dinner-table indeed is as well
appointed in every way as any gentleman could desire; the attendants
numerous and well ordered; the service, including every luxury the
season can furnish, is of three courses; and the cloth is never drawn
under an hour. I am thus particular, because, as much has been said of
the badness of hotels in America, it is but fair to give place to a
notice of those which are good; and so essentially good a _table d'hote_
as that of the Mansion House at Philadelphia, whether for variety,
cooking, wine, or all these things combined, I never yet met in any
country of Europe.

PHILADELPHIA.

I pity the man who, on a fine morning, can walk through the shady and
clean streets of Philadelphia and cry, "all is barren!" In my eyes, it
appeared, even at first sight,--and no place improves more upon
acquaintance,--one of the most attractive-looking towns I had ever
beheld.

Coming immediately out of the noise, bustle, and variety of Broadway,
its general aspect appears quiet, almost _triste_; but the cleanliness,
the neatness, the air of comfort, propriety, and health, that reigns on
all sides, bespeaks immediate favour.

The progress of improvement, and enlargement too, are sufficiently
evident, for at either extremity of the city, the fall of hammer and
chisel give unceasing note of pre