so quietly
regulated.

Let the reader reflect, that here are two public tables daily, one for
men resident in the house, together with many gentlemen of the city, who
regularly dine here; the other for ladies, or families who have not
private apartments: of the latter there are a dozen, consisting of two
or more chambers attached to each parlour; these are seldom unoccupied,
and have also to be provided for: add to all this an occasional dinner
or supper to large public parties, and he will then be enabled to
appreciate the difficulties and do justice to the system which works as
I shall presently describe.

At half-past seven A.M. the crash of a gong rattles through the remotest
galleries, to rouse the sleepers: this you may hear or not, just as you
choose; but sound it does, and loudly. Again, at eight, it proclaims
breakfast on the public tables: as I never made my appearance at this
meal, I cannot be expected to tell how it may be attended. The lover of
a late _dejeuner_ may either order his servant to provide one in his own
room, or at any hour, up to noon, direct it to be served in the common
hall: it will, in either case, consist of whatever he may desire that is
in the house.

At three o'clock, dinner is served in a well-proportioned, well-lighted
room, seventy feet long by thirty-one wide, occupied by two parallel
tables, perfectly appointed, and provided with every delicacy of the
season, well dressed and in great abundance,--the French cooking the
best in the country,--this _par parenthese_. Meantime, the attendance is
very sufficient for a man not in a "devouring rage," and the wines of
every kind really unexceptionable to any reasonable _gourmet_.

At this same hour, let it be borne in mind, the same play is playing in
what is called the ladies' dining-room, where they sit surrounded by
their husbands, fathers, brothers, or lovers, as may be; and surely
having no meaner table-service. As for the possessors of an apartment,
these persons order dinner for as many as they please, at what hour they
please, and in what style they please, the which is duly provided in
their respective parlours.

In the public rooms tea is served at six, and supper at nine o'clock; it
being yet a marvel to me, first, how all these elaborate meals are so
admirably got up, and next, how the plague these good people find
appetite to come to time with a regularity no less surprising.

It was a constant subject of no little amu