ty, becomes,
at that magic tinkle, a desert.

On descending the stair, you perceive two long ranges of table thickly
bestrewn with dishes containing beefsteak, ham, fish, chicken, game,
_omelettes_,--together with hot rolls, cakes, and bread of every other
form and denomination, with tea and coffee, borne about as called for;
the whole arranged with an attention to neatness and propriety quite
surprising when you consider the place, and the difficulties which are
inseparable from having to cater and cook for such a multitude.

If you are not of an active habit, or if you object to remain stewing in
the cabin for a time waiting on the event, you observe at a glance that,
ample as the tables appear, every seat is occupied. Here is no
reservation of places--possession is your only admitted right, and, were
the President himself too late, he must sit out, or be admitted of the
party on courtesy: of this, however, let me add, it never was my chance
to perceive any lack. One of the black waiters, recognising you for a
frequent passenger, is touched by your appealing glance, motions you to
follow him, advancing at the same time a stool with an insinuating air
between two goodhumoured-looking men, with "Please, make a little room
for this gentleman."

A niche is readily conceded; and, casting an eye right, left, or
straightforward, you can hardly fail to find something to your liking.
The board is soon clear of the "Rapids,"--a large family in most such
places; and now you acquire ample space to prove your prowess in.

Having breakfasted, you once more mount the upper deck and breathe the
pure air of heaven, unpolluted by that unpleasant gas which escapes from
the iron coal burnt in the cabin stoves. Such at least was my constant
habit: the natives, I observed, although accustomed to a climate whose
vicissitudes are extreme, never appear voluntarily to face the cold, but
for the most part, abide below, congregated in concentric circles, of
which a red-hot stove, filled with that to me deadly abomination,
anthracite coal, forms the centre.

Wrapping well up, I found, even in the severest season, no difficulty in
facing the open air, and have more than once paced the upper deck for a
passage of three or four hours without having my territory invaded, or
at most only for a few minutes by some adventurous spirit, who
invariably dived down after a shiver or two.

Here then, between your meals, you may promenade upon a noble de