site, and gives promise of becoming important in point of
population; at present its inhabitants are about four thousand.

From this we steered away to the southward, until at Chambersburg we
struck the direct road leading from Baltimore to Pittsburg. We had a
rough night of it; but a halt of an hour at Chambersburg in the morning,
enabled me to make a comfortable toilet and get an excellent breakfast.
Here we took the first spur of the mountains, and from this were on a
continual ascent.

Up the longer and steeper hills I constantly walked, and was often an
hour in advance of the stage. This mountain region is certainly a very
fine one, and I do not think its grandeur has ever been done justice to
in description. Its attributes are all gigantic: it has the picturesque
ruggedness of the Appenines, without their barrenness; since the valleys
lying between the ridges, wherever they have been cleared, give
evidences of the richest soil. A view from any hill top, however, shows
these clearings to be mere specks in the surrounding forest, which yet
clothes richly the sides of each interminable ridge you cross, fringes
their most rugged summits, and waves over the loftiest peaks.

At Bedford Springs there is a most excellent inn; but the one at a
miserable village called Macconnelville, presented an aspect anything
but inviting: the precaution of Mr. Head, however, had made me
independent of supplies. On quitting the Mansion-house he had fitted up
a small basket with sundry comforts, which were of infinite use to
myself and comrades, they served as a speedy introduction and a durable
cement to our friendship.

I like these Western men; their off-hand manner makes you at once at
your ease with them: they abound in anecdote growing out of the state in
which they live, full of wild frolic and hardy adventure, and they
recount these adventures with an exaggeration of figure quite Oriental,
in a phraseology peculiar to themselves, and with a manner most
humorous.

Much amongst strangers, they have a quick appreciation of character;
and, where they take a dislike, are, I have no doubt, mighty troublesome
customers; they are, however, naturally courteous, and capable of
genuine and inbred kindness, as a little anecdote of my present trip
will serve to illustrate.

On the morning of our second night out, I observed the Major and his
friends holding a council just as we were stepping into the coach. We
were eight persons, whic