y ascertain, but certainly they were
scampish-looking steeds, their physiognomical expression was low and
dogged, such as one might expect from the degrading nature of their
unvarying task.

On the larboard gangway of our flat the American jack floated, and over
the starboard side waved the Union flag of Old England; they fluttered
proudly side by side, a worthy brotherhood, and so united may they long
be found!

The ride along the Canada shore was very fine, the noble stream being
constantly in sight: the country appeared thickly populated; but the
land poor, the cultivation of it, I believe, is not found very
profitable.

We halted to water the team at a public-house that stands upon the
ground where was fought the battle of Chippewa, which, as the Yankees
say, "eventuated just no how." This was the twentieth anniversary; and,
on alighting from the box, I was exceedingly amused to find the host and
a smart wayfaring young man, with mutual vehemence well worthy the
cause, fighting the battle over again.

From this house the eternal mist caused by the great fall may be plainly
seen curling like a vast body of light smoke, and shooting occasionally
in spiral columns high above the tree-tops; but not a sound told of its
neighbourhood, although we were not five miles distant from it, and the
day was calm and clear. At about three miles from this, as the vehicle
slowly ascended a rise, I heard for the first time the voice of the
waters, and called the attention of my friends within the carriage to
the sound.

Never let any impatient man set out for Niagara in one of these coaches;
a railroad would hardly keep pace with one's eagerness, and here were we
crawling at the rate of four miles per hour. I fancied that the last
three miles never would be accomplished; and often wished internally, as
I beat the devil's tattoo upon the footboard of the coach-box, that I
had bought or borrowed or stolen a horse at Chippewa, and galloped to
the wonder alone and silently.

At length the hotel came in view, and I knew that the rapid was close at
hand.

"Now, sir, look out!" quietly said the driver.

I almost determined upon shutting my eyes or turning away my head; but I
do not think it would have been within the compass of my will so to have
governed them; for even at this distant moment, as I write, I find my
pen move too slow to keep pace with the recollections of the impatience
which I seek to record.

It was at the mome