nt we struck the foot of the hill leading up to the
hotel that the rapid and the great horse-shoe fall became visible over
the sunken trees to our right, almost on a level with us. I have heard
people talk of having felt disappointed on a first view of this
stupendous scene: by what process they arrived at this conclusion I
profess myself utterly incapable of divining, since, even now that two
years have almost gone by, I find on this point my feelings are not yet
to be analyzed; I dare not trust myself to their guidance, and only know
that my wildest imaginings were forgotten in contemplating this awful
reality.

A very few minutes after we were released from the confinement of the
coach saw myself and companions upon the Table-rock; and soon after we
were submitting to the equipment provided by a man resident upon the
spot for persons who chose to penetrate beneath the great fall, and
whose advertisement assured us that the gratification of curiosity was
unattended with either inconvenience or danger, as water-proof dresses
were kept in readiness, together with an experienced guide. The
water-proof dress given to me I found still wet through; and, on the
arrival of the experienced guide, I was not a little surprised to see
the fellow, after a long stare in my face, exclaim,

"Och, blur an' 'oons! Mr. Power, sure it's not yer honour that's come
all this way from home!"

An explanation took place; when I found that our guide, whom I had seen
some two years before as a helper in the stable of my hospitable friend
Smith Barry, at Foaty, was this summer promoted to the office of
"Conductor," as he styled himself, under the waterfall.

And a most whimsical "conductor" he proved. His cautions, and "divil a
fears!" and "not a hap'orth o' danger!" must have been mighty assuring
to the timid or nervous, if any such ever make this experiment, which,
although perfectly safe, is not a little startling.

His directions,--when we arrived at the point where the mist, pent in
beneath the overhanging rock, makes it impossible to distinguish
anything, and where the rush of air is so violent as to render
respiration for a few seconds almost impracticable,--were inimitable.

"Now, yer honour!" he shouted in my ear--for we moved in Indian
file,--"whisper the next gintleman to follow you smart; and, for the
love o' God! shoulder the rock close, stoop yer heads, and shut fast yer
eyes, or you won't be able to see an inch!"

I repeate