, give an
unceasing air of bustle to the scene. I was greatly charmed by our sail
up this passage into the Sound dividing Long Island from the continent,
which it flanks and protects for a distance of one hundred miles.

The banks on either side do not vary a great deal in elevation, but are
of a slightly undulating character, beautifully wooded, and sprinkled
with the attractive-looking villas of the country. Mr. Cooper's graphic
description of Hurl-gate, in his novel of the "Red Rover," led me to
look out for it with an interest which the reality did not repay,
although the tide was in a favourable state. I confess, however, I think
that my imagination rather outran discretion than that the whirlpool
lacked grandeur: that it was not to be encountered without some peril we
had very good evidence; for, on a rocky islet to the southward of the
worst part of the fall, a large schooner lay hove up on her beam-ends,
with all her spars aloft and her sails half furled, as she had been
abandoned by her crew. Our pilot informed me that the accident had
occurred the day previous, and was by no means a rare example, the
downward passage at the last of the ebb requiring great care and
experience.

Our powerful engines forced the vessel through the dark eddies,
apparently without difficulty; and in a little while this long
looked-for wonder was forgotten.

I remained on deck until after midnight; for there was a bright moon and
a calm clear sky, and the Sound was sprinkled with craft of all kinds.

I must not omit to notice supper, or tea,--for it was both, and an
excellent meal it was,--served about eight o'clock upon two parallel
tables, which ran the whole length of the cabin, at least one hundred
and eighty feet; and to which sat down about one hundred persons of all
ranks,--the richest merchants, the most eminent statesmen, and the
humblest mechanic who chose to pay for a cabin fare, as most of these
persons who travel do. I was seated with an exceeding lady-like and
well-bred woman on my left hand, and on my right sat a man who, although
decently dressed, was evidently a working operative of the humblest
class; yet was there nothing in either his manner or appearance to annoy
the most refined female: he asked for what he wanted respectfully,
performed any little attention he could courteously, and evinced better
breeding and less selfishness than I have witnessed at some public
dinners at home, where the admission of such