the tops of trees like
rooks." Thus spake Erasmus; and this literal fact makes Amsterdam a most
curious as well as a most interesting place.

Were I writing of any one of Queen Victoria's Palaces, I should have no
need to speak of its situation: but, travellers though we are, we do not
all see these quaint Dutch cities, so a few introductory words may not
come amiss.

A walk round the city reminds one of Paris with its Boulevards planted
with trees, and Venice with its all-present canals; indeed, it is
actually divided up into nearly one hundred islands, connected by over
three hundred bridges. A curious thing is, that its inhabitants are
really living below the level of the sea, which is stoutly dammed out.
Thus, if necessary, water could be made its protection from
any invasion.

To go back to the commencement, everything, streets, houses, and bridges
are all built upon wooden piles driven into the ground. This is
absolutely necessary, as the natural soil is such that no permanent
structure can be put up otherwise. On how many piles this city stands it
is impossible to form an accurate idea; one building--the Royal Palace
(Het Paleis)--resting on some 13,659. This is situated on the Dam, the
highest point of the city. It is 282ft. long; the height, with tower,
being 187ft. It was built from 1648-1655 for a town hall, and only
became a Royal Palace in 1808, when Napoleon first abode in it. As such,
it has a great drawback, the want of a suitable entrance.

[Illustration: THE HALL OR RECEPTION-ROOM.
_From a Photo. by Gunn & Stuart, Richmond._]

I enter now at the rear of the building, which--situated in the Gedempte
Voorburgwal--is the entrance used by their Majesties. In spite of its
civic associations, when once inside there is much of the state and
grandeur inseparable from Royalty, and I soon determine that Holland can
almost equal England for its palatial contents and embellishments. The
staircases and corridors are severe to simplicity, but when I look round
the first apartment I intend inspecting, I am struck with the immensity
and the exceeding beauty of its appearance. This is known as the Hall or
Reception-Room, and is said to be the finest in Europe. Its proportions
are certainly magnificent, 125ft. by 55ft.--a special feature being a
remarkably fine roof, 100ft. in height, with entire absence of columns
or other support. Roof, walls, and the hall entire are lined with white
Italian marble, the floor h