rvant, indignantly
gathered up his belongings, and, having first come to the window of my
carriage to tell me of his troubles, took refuge in some other part of
the train.

"Well, this is a pretty state of things, when you find a native in a
cabin!" said a young military officer to me, when he saw an Indian go
into the adjoining cabin on board ship. "If he has paid for his berth,
he has a right to it," I said; "besides, he is not in your cabin."
"Well I did think that a P. & O. was a white man's ship," replied the
young officer with great bitterness.

"No doubt you missionaries have learnt to get over the prejudice,"
said a delightful young army captain to me on board the same ship,
"and I suppose it is very wrong of me; but I positively _hate_ a black
man."

Though there are certain drawbacks connected with some native
passengers, they are much more courteous than the average Englishman
is, even to his own countrymen. The stranger, who at some wayside
station, intrudes into a carriage already sufficiently full, does not
expect to be welcomed. At night the large clerical sun hat meets with
a specially cold reception from the Englishman, who peeps out at the
intruder from beneath his blankets. But the Indian traveller will
assure you that there is plenty of room. He will cheerfully help you
with your luggage, clearing away his own belongings in order to make
space for yours; and on one occasion an Indian insisted on my taking
his berth, while he himself sat up on a corner of a seat for the rest
of the night.

However good the intentions of kindly Englishmen may be when
travelling, it is almost impossible to avoid the appearance of
acquiescing in arrangements which are trying to the Indian. On most
lines there are third-class compartments reserved for Europeans and
Eurasians. The arrangement is not merely to protect the Englishman
from the intrusion of native fellow-passengers. The Hindu is at least
equally unwilling to have the white man as an intruder in his own part
of the train, and it is generally understood that just as the native
must not trespass into the European compartments, so on his part the
Englishman should keep out of the carriages allotted to Indians.

Not being able to find the usual European compartment on a certain
train, I asked the young Eurasian ticket-collector whereabouts it was.
"There is not one on the train," he said, "but I will soon make one."
And going to one of the native compartment