dings to change horses and
mules. The stoppage roused us from the half-asleep state we were in, and
we got out of the van to look at the glorious star-gemmed sky. There was
an unusual stir in the little building, and the moonlight showed a large
dusky mass nearing us. Nearer and nearer it came; and as it passed, we
saw that it was a long string of camels.

The war with Persia was going on at this time; and this was a treasure
party, carrying money to pay the army. The camels were laden with chests
of treasure, silver and gold. On they came, with their long, sailing
step. "Ships of the desert," the Arabs call them. The name is well
chosen, for their motion over the sea of sand is very like that of some
stately vessel over the desert of waters.

The caravan was escorted by a party of Arab horsemen. The officer in
command of the party stopped behind for a few moments at the building at
which we were halting, to give some orders. The string of camels and
their escort were again becoming dusky in the subdued light when he
flashed past us on his Arab horse, his drawn sabre glittering in the
moonlight, which sparkled for a moment on its jewelled hilt, and on the
gems in his turban. Then he too was lost in darkness.

The stately procession moved noiselessly on; the picturesque rider
flying by like some fleet graceful bird. No tramp of feet, no ring of
horses' hoofs. The deep sand hushed every sound. It was like a beautiful
dream; seen for a moment, then vanishing into the land of shadows for
ever.

We were fortunate to fall in with this treasure party; still more
fortunate to see it by moonlight. Travellers generally pass through the
desert by this beaten track without anything to break its monotony.

In a few minutes we were again on our way; those of us who could were
dozing, perhaps dreaming of camels and horsemen, and only just conscious
of the stoppages we made.

[Illustration: ARAB SOLDIERS.]

At last some one said, "Wake up, we are near Cairo."

We shook ourselves up, undrew part of the curtains, drew our wraps more
closely round us (for the night was cold), and looked out. We were going
down a gentle slope, passing walls which enclosed gardens, and above
which we could see the tops of trees and shrubs. The moon was getting
low, and we could not distinguish what trees and shrubs they were; but
the sight of green leaves was very pleasant.

We drove on down the easy descent into Cairo; and at between three and
f