oticed that the
Egyptian boats were large and handsomely painted--large enough to take a
chariot and its two horses on board.

On the opposite side of the tomb the owner and his wife are seated, with
a pet monkey close to them, tied. They are entertaining a party of
guests, the men and women sitting separate; servants are handing round
refreshments, and musicians, with a double pipe and a harp, are amusing
the company.

These pictures of the home-life and manners of the early Egyptians have
interested us very much. I certainly prefer them to the battle scenes
and pictures of sacrifices to their gods.

Leaving El Kab, we next stopped at Esneh. Our sailors have been baking
bread here. They bring it from the oven and spread it on the roof of the
cabins, where the wind and sun dry it into a sort of biscuit.

We landed to see the temple. It is very perfect, and the pillars are of
great beauty. They are about fifty feet high, and are covered with
hieroglyphics. There are four rows of pillars, six in each row. On the
ceiling is a zodiac, and the walls are covered with sculpture.

The villa built here by Mohammed Ali is well worth a visit. It is on the
bank of the river below the town. A flight of stone steps leads up to a
terrace, which is shaded by acacias and other shrubs. The palace stands
in a garden; the entrance and chief rooms are large and high, and have
carved wooden roofs. The pacha's rooms are very comfortably furnished,
with carpets, divans, and every sort of luxury. We saw numbers of lemon,
orange, cypress, acacia, and palm-trees in the garden, and hedges of
Cape jessamine. Below the palace there is a delightful walk on the bank
of the Nile. Altogether it is a charming retreat.

We have now an opportunity of sending letters. They will be the last you
will have. For we shall delay nowhere on our way back after we have
again visited the temples at this place. You may expect us in two days
after this packet arrives.

* * * * *

"So they are really coming back," said Lucy; "I am so glad. I want very
much to see Rahaba."

Hugh, who was more taken up with sight-seeing at that moment, began to
make his calculations as to how much we should be able to see before the
Nile party reached Cairo.

We determined to lose no time, but to set off early in the morning to
see Pompey's Pillar, and such other sights as we could. The day after,
we must go back to Cairo to meet our friends.