armed away by the good spirits who dwelt behind the door. He
showed us that the door was covered with metal plates, and that every
crevice of them was full of nails, driven in by persons who had had
headache, that they might be cured. Besides the nails, a great number of
teeth had been crammed in by persons who had suffered from toothache.

Their faith is a lesson to us, whose hearts are less ready to trust in
the God who reigneth in the heavens, than the hearts of these poor
heathen are to trust the gods of their imagination.

[Illustration: CURE FOR THE TOOTHACHE.]

From the gate Bab Zuweyleh we went to the citadel. Here we were to see
the palace of Saladin.

"What! the great Saladin who fought with Richard Coeur de Lion?" Lucy
asked.

"Yes, that very Saladin."

"Delightful! the next best thing to seeing Saladin himself," cried Hugh.

Hugh and Lucy were impatient to see a real palace like those in old
eastern tales; we all felt a thrill of excitement, expecting something
of Oriental grandeur. Great was our disappointment! There was nothing
left of the renowned Saladin's palace except a few grand fragments of
its granite pillars, and some blocks of granite covered with
hieroglyphics. We found another memorial of him in "Joseph's well,"
which is also in the citadel, and is now generally considered to have
been called after the great Saracen, whose name was Yussuf
Salah-ed-Deen, and not after the patriarch Joseph.

From the gloomy remains of Saladin's palace we went to the palace of the
Viceroy, the windows of which look into a beautiful garden. From the
terrace we had a magnificent view. Cairo, with its domes and minarets;
then, the tombs of the Caliphs; beyond them, the broad, silent Nile;
beyond it again, the eye rested on the sands of the desert and on the
long line of pyramids which loomed in the distance.

[Illustration: MOSQUE.]

We next saw the new mosque, built by Mohammed Ali, of beautifully veined
alabaster. And, last of all, the court where the Mamelukes were
massacred by Mohammed Ali in 1811. Here Mohammed pointed out to us the
spot at which Emir Bey took his famous leap.

Hugh and Lucy begged to hear the whole story; but it was too long to
tell at that moment and was put off till evening.

We then returned to the hotel for lunch, and in the afternoon went to
Shoubra to see the pacha's country palace.

Our road lay through a beautiful avenue of sycamores and acacias, which
interlaced their bo