a Sphinx was found near it some time ago, so that it is supposed
that an avenue of Sphinxes led up to it, and that it is one of two
obelisks which probably stood at the entrance of the Temple of the Sun.
Wild bees had made their nests on the top of the obelisk, and came down
upon us in swarms, as is their wont to travellers. Lucy was frightened;
and though Hugh tried to look very brave, he did not feel quite at ease
any more than myself. However, we came to no harm, though they buzzed
all about us. The obelisk stands in a garden of rosemary and other
herbs, which perhaps attracted the bees to it as their home.
In vain we wandered hither and thither, searching for some other traces
of the bygone glories of this City of the Sun. Here it was that Joseph
once lived. Here it was that Moses was made "learned in the wisdom of
the Egyptians." Here the wise and learned men of Egypt used to assemble.
Here was once heard "joy and the voice of melody." Where is it now? All
is silent, still. This solitary pillar alone stands to mark the scene of
long-forgotten pomp and glory.
Thus do earthly cities vanish. But the heavenly city which our Saviour
has prepared for them that love him, will endure for evermore. Its
glories are far brighter than ever were those of this City of the Sun,
and are unfading; be it ours to have a part in that new and blessed
city!
The next morning we met some travellers who had been to a Copt wedding,
of which the lady gave us an account.
"The family was a rich one," she said, "and everything was most
splendid. The inner court of the house was beautifully lighted, and was
crowded with guests. In the middle were the musicians, with all sorts of
instruments: Arab flutes, dulcimers, fiddles; the noise was deafening.
"The master of the house took us to an up-stairs room in which were the
guests of higher rank. These were all men. Though the Copts are not
Mohammedans, it seems the custom for their women to live in as great
retirement as the Mohammedan women do, and also for them to cover their
faces when they go out of doors.
"We were taken into a large room covered with rich carpets, and lighted
by a number of wax candles and a large chandelier. We were led to a
large divan, where pipes, coffee, sweetmeats, and sherbet were handed to
us, whilst we listened to the songs of the singing women.
"These singing women are called 'Alme.' They attend the weddings of all
the rich people in Cairo, and are paid
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