tered a
heavily laden ass coming down a steep declivity. Ere I had time to leap
from my saddle, the ass came direct upon me with such force that my
horse was driven backwards by the concussion, and I was thrown. Ten
months afterwards, another encounter of the same kind threatened me with
a similar disaster, and to save myself I had no alternative but to shoot
the ass. The Indian who was driving the animal neglected the usual
warning cry, given by the arrieros when they enter those dangerous
passes, and he was regardless of my repeated calls desiring him to stop.

In some steep places, with the view of improving the roads, the Indians
lay down large stones in the form of steps; but to ride over these rude
flights of steps is no easy task, for the stones are small, and are
placed at the distance of a foot and a half or two feet apart. The mule
begins by placing his hind feet on the first stone, then springing
forward he reaches the third stone with his fore feet, at the same time
placing his hind feet to the second. By this manoeuvre the mule's body
is kept at full stretch, and the rider is obliged to lean forward over
the animal's neck to avoid being thrown head-foremost by the violent
jerks when the mule springs from step to step. It is absolute torture
to ride down a descent of five or six leagues, along a road such as I
have just described: willingly would the harassed rider dismount and
pursue his course on foot; but were he to attempt to do so, the mule
would stand stock still. I have already remarked the singular
obstinacy with which the mules refuse to proceed when their riders
dismount, and it sometimes gives rise to very comical scenes. On my
way to Vitoc, I was passing through a ravine in which the uprooted
trunk of a tree was resting slantwise against a rock. Though there was
not room for me to ride under it, yet there was sufficient space to
allow my mule to pass, and I accordingly dismounted; but all my
efforts to drive the animal forward were fruitless. I had no
alternative but to ride close up to the tree, then spurring the mule,
I quickly slipped out of the saddle, and seizing the trunk of the
tree, I hung to it until the mule had passed on.

No less difficult and dangerous are the steep declivities over loamy
soils, which are frequently met with in these districts. On them the
mule has no firm footing, and is in danger of slipping down at every
step. But the wonderful instinct of these animals enables t