ation, another for those
who adulterate bread, and so forth.

[Illustration: S. TRIFONIO AND THE BASILISK
FROM THE PAINTING BY CARPACCIO
_At S. Giorgio dei Schiavoni_]

The upper gallery running round the courtyard has been converted into a
Venetian--almost an Italian--Valhalla. Here are busts of the greatest
men, and of one woman, Catherine Cornaro, who gave Cyprus to the
Republic and whom Titian painted. Among the first busts that I
noted--ascending the stairs close to the Porta della Carta--was that of
Ugo Foscolo, the poet, patriot, and miscellaneous writer, who spent the
last years of his life in London and became a contributor to English
periodicals. One of his most popular works in Italy was his translation
of Sterne's _Sentimental Journey_. He died at Turnham Green in 1827, but
his remains, many years after, were moved to Santa Croce in Florence.
Others are Carlo Zeno, the soldier; Goldoni, the dramatist; Paolo Sarpi,
the monkish diplomatist; Galileo Galilei, the astronomer and
mathematician; the two Cabots, the explorers, and Marco Polo, their
predecessor; Niccolo Tommaseo, the patriot and associate of Daniele
Manin, looking very like a blend of Walt Whitman and Tennyson; Dante; a
small selection of Doges, of whom the great Andrea Dandolo is the most
striking; Tintoretto, Giovanni Bellini, Titian, and Paul Veronese;
Tiepolo, a big-faced man in a wig whom the inscription credits with
having "renewed the glory" of the two last named; Canova, the sculptor;
Daniele Manin, rather like John Bright; Lazzaro Mocenigo, commander in
chief of the Venetian forces, rather like Buffalo Bill; and flanking the
entrance to the palace Vittorio Pisani and Carlo Zeno, the two patriots
and warriors who together saved the Republic in the Chioggian war with
the Genoese in the fourteenth century.

This collection of great men makes no effort to be complete, but it is
rather surprising not to find such very loyal sons of Venice as
Canaletto, Guardi and Longhi among the artists, and Giorgione is of
course a grievous omission.

CHAPTER VII

THE PIAZZETTA

The two columns--An ingenious engineer--S. Mark's lion--S.
Theodore of Heraclea--The Old Library--Jacopo Sansovino--The
Venetian Brunelleschi--Vasari's life--A Venetian library--Early
printed books--The Grimani breviary--A pageant of the
Seasons--The Loggetta--Coryat again--The view from the Molo--The
gondolier--Alessandro and Ferdinando--The danger of the
traghetto-