na. Note its fluted
pillars and rich stonework. This palace we may enter, for it is now the
Tate Gallery of Venice, housing, below, a changing exhibition of
contemporary art, and, above, a permanent collection, to which additions
are constantly being made, of modern Italian painting. Foreign artists
are admitted too, and my eyes were gladdened by Mr. Nicholson's "Nancy,"
a landscape by Mr. E.A. Walton, a melon-seller by Mr. Brangwyn, a lady
in pink by Mr. Lavery, and a fisherman by Mr. Cayley Robinson. A number
of Whistler's Venetian etchings may also be seen here, and much
characteristic work by Mr. Pennell. Here too are the "Burghers of
Calais" and the "Thinker" of Rodin, while a nude by Fantin Latour should
be sought for. One of the most interesting pictures so far as subject
goes represents the bridge of boats to the Redentore on a recent All
Souls' day.

I have been absolutely alone in this building, save for the custodians.
The Venetian can live very easily without picture galleries, ancient or
modern.

The Rio della Pergola washes the other side of the Pesaro palace, and
then come two or three houses, once Foscarini homes, given up to
antiquity dealers, and then the florid white stone facade of the church
of S. Stae (or S. Eustachio) with a delightful little Venetian-red annex
on the left. There is a campo and steamboat station here too. The next
palace has pretty little Gothic windows, and then a small brown house
stands in its garden on the site of a burnt Contarini palace. A good red
brick fifteenth-century palace, now a wine store, is next, and then the
Tron, now an institution, with a garden and well-head seen through the
open door. Great scenes have been witnessed in this building, for the
Trons were a famous and powerful Venetian family, supplying more than
one Doge, and here in 1775 was entertained the Emperor Joseph II.

Then the Rio Tron and then the Palazzo Battagia, with two rich coats of
arms in relief, which is also by Longhena, but I hope that it was not he
who placed the columns on the roof. The tiny Calle del Megio, and we
reach the venerable piece of decay which once was the granary of the
Venetian Republic--one of the most dignified and attractive buildings on
the canal, with its old brick and coping of pointed arches. The Rio del
Megio divides the granary from the old Fondaco dei Turchi, once, after a
long and distinguished life as a palace, the head-quarters of the Turks
in Venice, and now