May, 1860. These three monuments are considered to be the
chief attractions of Calatafimi; but one should not suppose that, after
one has seen its principal monuments, there is nothing more to be got out
of a Sicilian town. I had picnicked in the temple of Segesta, climbed up
through the site of the ancient city to the theatre and seen Garibaldi's
monument over and over again and in all kinds of weather, before I knew
anything of the processions which occur at Calatafimi early in May.

I was there one year when the annual festa was conducted with more than
the usual ceremony. I went to the Albergo Samuel Butler, named after the
author of _Erewhon_, who often stayed there when writing _The Authoress
of the Odyssey_, and was well known in the town. Owing to the death of
Don Paolo who, with his wife, Donna Maria, used to manage the hotel, it
is now (1908), I regret to say, closed, and the traveller must do the
best he can at one of the other inns. Butler's memory is, however, still
preserved in the name of one of the streets.

The day after my arrival was the great day of the festa, and opened with
rain. The people, who had come from all the country round, hung about
listlessly during the morning, hoping that the weather might clear up and
by noon the authorities decided that the ceremonies should proceed, so
that, as they all had to be crowded into the afternoon, the town for the
rest of the day was choked with processions.

There was first the Procession of the Maestranza, of unascertainable
antiquity. Those who took part in it came riding on horses and mules
covered with gaudy trappings and carrying something to indicate their
trades. The Oil-pressers, suitably dressed, carried a model of an
oil-press; the Millers carried a little mill; and these two companies
carried their money on trays. The Vetturini, who came next, carried
their money stuck into little wooden horses, like almonds in a hedgehog
pudding. The Tillers of the Ground carried a model of a plough. There
were men carrying long lighted candles with circular loaves of bread
threaded on them; others carried bags full of nuts and sugar-plums which
they continually scattered among the crowd and threw in at the open
windows.

There was the procession with the traditional Car of the Massari, made by
fixing a square wooden framework on a cart and covering the outside of it
with green leaves which were again nearly hidden by loaves in the shape
of rings