I was compelled to read a work by the crabbed Tacitus on the
Germans, where, in the midst of a deal that is vague and fantastic
nonsense and much that is wilful lying, comes this excellent truth,
that barbarians build their houses separate, but civilized men
together. So whenever you see a lot of red roofs nestling, as the
phrase goes, in the woods of a hillside in south England, remember
that all that is savagery; but when you see a hundred white-washed
houses in a row along a dead straight road, lift up your hearts, for
you are in civilization again.

But I continue to wander from Flavigny. The first thing I saw as I
came into the street and noted how the level sun stood in a haze
beyond, and how it shadowed and brought out the slight irregularities
of the road, was a cart drawn by a galloping donkey, which came at and
passed me with a prodigious clatter as I dragged myself forward. In
the cart were two nuns, each with a scythe; they were going out
mowing, and were up the first in the village, as Religious always are.
Cheered by this happy omen, but not yet heartened, I next met a very
old man leading out a horse, and asked him if there was anywhere where
I could find coffee and bread at that hour; but he shook his head
mournfully and wished me good-morning in a strong accent, for he was
deaf and probably thought I was begging. So I went on still more
despondent till I came to a really merry man of about middle age who
was going to the fields, singing, with a very large rake over his
shoulder. When I had asked him the same question he stared at me a
little and said of course coffee and bread could be had at the
baker's, and when I asked him how I should know the baker's he was
still more surprised at my ignorance, and said, 'By the smoke coming
from the large chimney.' This I saw rising a short way off on my
right, so I thanked him and went and found there a youth of about
nineteen, who sat at a fine oak table and had coffee, rum, and a loaf
before him. He was waiting for the bread in the oven to be ready; and
meanwhile he was very courteous, poured out coffee and rum for me and
offered me bread.

It is a matter often discussed why bakers are such excellent citizens
and good men. For while it is admitted in every country I was ever in
that cobblers are argumentative and atheists (I except the cobbler
under Plinlimmon, concerning whom would to heaven I had the space to
tell you all here, for he knows the legends of