a
little time I passed a battery. Then a captain went by on a horse,
with his orderly behind him. Where the deep lock stands by the
roadside--the only suggestion of coolness--I first heard the bugles;
then I came into the long street and determined to explore Epinal, and
to cast aside all haste and folly.

There are many wonderful things in Epinal. As, for instance, that it
was evidently once, like Paris and Melun and a dozen other strongholds
of the Gauls, an island city. For the rivers of France are full of
long, habitable islands, and these were once the rallying-places of
clans. Then there are the forts which are placed on high hills round
the town and make it even stronger than Toul; for Epinal stands just
where the hills begin to be very high. Again, it is the capital of a
mountain district, and this character always does something peculiar
and impressive to a town. You may watch its effect in Grenoble, in
little Aubusson, and, rather less, in Geneva.

For in such towns three quite different kinds of men meet. First there
are the old plain-men, who despise the highlanders and think
themselves much grander and more civilized; these are the burgesses.
Then there are the peasants and wood-cutters, who come in from the
hill-country to market, and who are suspicious of the plain-men and
yet proud to depend upon a real town with a bishop and paved streets.
Lastly, there are the travellers, who come there to enjoy the
mountains and to make the city a base for their excursions, and these
love the hill-men and think they understand them, and they despise the
plain-men for being so middle-class as to lord it over the hill-men:
but in truth this third class, being outsiders, are equally hated and
despised by both the others, and there is a combination against them
and they are exploited.

And there are many other things in which Epinal is wonderful, but in
nothing is it more wonderful than in its great church.

I suppose that the high Dukes of Burgundy and Lorraine and the rich
men from Flanders and the House of Luxemburg and the rest, going to
Rome, the centre of the world, had often to pass up this valley of the
Moselle, which (as I have said) is a road leading to Rome, and would
halt at fipinal and would at times give money for its church; with
this result, that the church belongs to every imaginable period and is
built anyhow, in twenty styles, but stands as a whole a most enduring
record of past forms and of what