e essence of lonely travel; and if you have come to
this book for literature you have come to the wrong booth and counter.
As I was saying: it is a curious thing that some people (or races)
jump from one subject to another naturally, as some animals (I mean
the noble deer) go by bounds. While there are other races (or
individuals--heaven forgive me, I am no ethnologist) who think you a
criminal or a lunatic unless you carefully plod along from step to
step like a hippopotamus out of water. When, therefore, I asked this
family-drilling, house-managing, mountain-living woman whether she
could make omelettes, she shook her head at me slowly, keeping her
eyes fixed on mine, and said in what was the corpse of French with a
German ghost in it, 'The bed is a franc.'

'Motherkin,' I answered, 'what I mean is that I would sleep until I
wake, for I have come a prodigious distance and have last slept in the
woods. But when I wake I shall need food, for which,' I added, pulling
out yet another coin, 'I will pay whatever your charge may be; for a
more delightful house I have rarely met with. I know most people do
not sleep before sunset, but I am particularly tired and broken.'

She showed me my bed then much more kindly, and when I woke, which was
long after dusk, she gave me in the living room of the hut eggs beaten
up with ham, and I ate brown bread and said grace.

Then (my wine was not yet finished, but it is an abominable thing to
drink your own wine in another person's house) I asked whether I could
have something to drink.

'What you like,' she said.

'What have you?' said I.

'Beer,' said she.

'Anything else?' said I.

'No,' said she.

'Why, then, give me some of that excellent beer.'

I drank this with delight, paid all my bill (which was that of a
labourer), and said good-night to them.

In good-nights they had a ceremony; for they all rose together and
curtsied. Upon my soul I believe such people to be the salt of the
earth. I bowed with real contrition, for at several moments I had
believed myself better than they. Then I went to my bed and they to
theirs. The wind howled outside; my boots were stiff like wood and I
could hardly take them off; my feet were so martyrized that I doubted
if I could walk at all on the morrow. Nevertheless I was so wrapped
round with the repose of this family's virtues that I fell asleep at
once. Next day the sun was rising in angry glory over the very distant
hills of Germ