of this hermit-host, and afterwards rode on towards the
heights, along a beautiful road among fields of lava. In half an
hour's time, however, we were completely shut in by lava-fields, and
here the beaten track ended. We now dismounted, and continued our
ascent on foot. It is difficult for one who has not seen it to
picture to himself the scene that lay around us. Devastation every
where; lava covering the whole region in heaps upon heaps,
fantastically piled one on the other. Here a huge isolated mound
rises, seemingly cut off on all sides from the lava around; there we
see how a mighty stream once rushed down the mountain-side, and
cooled gradually into stone. Immense chasms are filled with lava
masses, which have lain here for many years cold and motionless, and
will probably remain for as many more, for their fury has spent
itself.

The lava is of different colours, according as it has been exposed
to the atmosphere for a longer or a shorter period. The oldest lava
has the hue of granite, and almost its hardness, for which reasons
it is largely used for building houses and paving streets.

From the place where we left our donkeys we had to climb upwards for
nearly an hour over the lava before reaching the crater. The ascent
is somewhat fatiguing, as we are obliged to be very careful at every
step to avoid entangling our feet among the blocks of lava; still
the difficulty is not nearly so great as people make out. It is
merely necessary to wear good thick boots, and then all goes
extremely well. The higher we mount, the more numerous do the
fissures become from which smoke bursts forth. In one of these
clefts we placed some eggs, which were completely boiled in four
minutes' time. Near these places the ground is so hot that we could
not have stood still for many minutes; still we did not get burnt
feet or any thing of the kind.

On reaching the crater we found ourselves enveloped in so thick a
fog that we could not see ten paces in advance. There was nothing
for it but to sit down and wait patiently until the sun could
penetrate the mist and spread light and cheerfulness among us. Then
we descended into the crater, and approached as closely as possible
to the place from which the smoky column whirls into the air. The
road was a gloomy one, for we were shut in as in a bowl, and could
discern around us nothing but mountains of lava, while before us
rose the huge smoky column, threatening each moment