ned black hats, they quite
resemble the pictures of the bandits in the Abruzzi. They glide
about in so spectral a manner, and eye travellers with such a
sinister look, that I almost became uncomfortable.

From Jeromania we had still a few miles to travel until we entered
the Roman territory near Ceprano.

In Naples, and in fact throughout the whole of Italy, the passports
are continually called for,--a great annoyance to the traveller. In
the course of to-day my passport was "vise" five times, making once
in every little town through which we had passed.

It was our fortune at Ceprano to lodge with a very cheating host.
In the evening, when I inquired the price of a bedroom and
breakfast, they told me a bed would cost two pauls, and breakfast
half a paul; but when I came to pay, the host asked three pauls for
my bed-room, and another for a cup of the worst coffee I have ever
drunk; and the whole company was subjected to the same extortion.
We expostulated and complained, but were at length compelled to
comply with the demand.

November 8th.

The landscape remains the same, but the appearance of the towns and
villages is not nearly so neat and pretty as in the Neapolitan
domain. The costume of the peasants is like that worn by the people
whom we met yesterday, excepting that the women have a stiff
stomacher, fastened with a red lace, instead of the spencer. The
dress of the men consists of short knee-breeches, brown stockings,
heavy shoes, and a jacket of some dark colour. Some wear, in
addition to this, a red waistcoat, and a green sash round the waist.
All wear the conical hat. In cold weather the dark bandit's cloak
is also seen.

ROME.

As we approach Rome the country becomes more and more barren; the
mountains recede, and the extended plains have a desert,
uncultivated look. Towns and villages become so thinly scattered,
that it seems as though the whole region were depopulated. The road
is rather narrow, and as the country is in many places exceedingly
marshy, a great portion of it has been paved. For many miles before
we enter Rome we do not pass a single town or village. At length,
some three hours before we reach the city, the dome of St. Peter's
is seen looming in the distance; one church after another appears,
and at length the whole city lies spread before us.

Many ruins of aqueducts and buildings of every kind shewed at every
step what treasures of the past here awaited us. I was part