streets of Siena have a gloomy appearance; many of them are
built like castles, of great square blocks of stone, and furnished
with loopholes.

The finest building is undoubtedly the cathedral. Though I came
from the "city of churches," the beauty of this edifice struck me so
forcibly, that for a long time I stood silently regarding it. It
is, in truth, considered one of the handsomest churches in Italy.
It stands on a little elevation in the midst of a large square, and
is covered outside and inside with white marble. The lofty arches
of the windows, supported by columns, have a peculiarly fine effect;
and the frescoes in the sacristy are remarkable alike for the
correctness of outline and brilliancy of colour.

The drawings are said to be by Raphael; and the freshness of colour
observed in these frescoes is ascribed to the good qualities of the
Siena earth. The mass-books preserved in the sacristy contain some
very delicate miniatures on parchment.

Some of the wards in the neighbouring hospital are also decorated
with beautiful frescoes, which appear to date from the time of
Raphael.

The grace and beauty of the women of Siena have been extolled by
many writers. As to-day was Sunday, I attended high mass for the
purpose of meeting some of these graceful beauties. I found that
they were present in the usual average, and no more; beauty and
grace are no common gifts.

In the afternoon I visited the promenade, the Prato di Lizza, where
I found but little company. A fine prospect is obtained from the
walls of the town.

November 28th.

The country now becomes very beautiful. The mountains are less
high, the valleys widen, and at length hills only appear at
intervals, clothed with trees, meadows, and fields. In the Tuscan
dominions I noticed many cypresses, a tree I had not seen since my
departure from Constantinople and Smyrna. The country seems well
populated, and villages frequently appear.

At five in the evening we reached

FLORENCE,

but I did not arrive at Madame Mocalli's hotel until an hour and a
half later; for the examination of luggage and passes, and other
business of this kind, always occupies a long time.

The country round Florence is exceedingly lovely, without being
grand. The charming Arno flows through the town: it is crossed by
four stone bridges, one of them roofed and lined with booths on
either side. Florence contains 8000 houses and 90,000 inhabitants.
The exterior of