Sebastian,--I was always accompanied by a guide specially appointed
to conduct strangers to the churches. I could fill volumes with the
description of the riches and magnificence they display.

The church of St. John of Lateran possesses the wooden altar at
which St. Peter is said to have read mass, the wooden table at which
Jesus sat to eat the last supper, and the heads of the disciples
Peter and Paul. Near this church, in a building specially
constructed for it, is the Scala Santa (holy staircase), which was
brought from Jerusalem and deposited here. This is a flight of
twenty-eight steps of white marble, covered with boards, which no
one is allowed to ascend or descend in the regular way, every man
being required to shuffle up and down on his knees. Near this holy
stair a common one is built, which it is lawful to ascend in the
regular way.

The basilica of St. Paul lies beyond the gate of the same name, in a
very insalubrious neighbourhood. It is only just rebuilt, after
having been destroyed by fire.

The basilica Maria Maggiore, in which is deposited the "holy gate,"
has the highest belfry in Rome, and above its portico we see a
beautiful chamber where the new Pope stands to dispense the first
blessing among the people. In the chapel of the Crucifix five
pieces of the wood of the Saviour's manger are preserved in a silver
urn.

St. Lorenzo, a mile from the town, is a very plain-looking edifice.
Here we find the Campo Santo, or cemetery. The graves are covered
with large blocks of stone.

St. Bessoriana is also called the church of the Holy Cross of
Jerusalem, from the fact that a piece of the cross is preserved
here, besides the letters I.N.R.I., some thorns, and a nail.

St. Sebastian in the suburbs, one of the most ancient Roman
churches, is built over the great catacombs, in which 174,000
Christians were buried. The catacombs are some stories deep, and
extend over a large area.

All the above-named basilicas are so empty, and stand on such lonely
spots, that I was almost afraid to visit them alone.

The handsome church of Sta. Maria in Trastavare contrasts strangely
with the quarter of the town in which it lies. This part of Rome is
inhabited by people calling themselves descendants of the ancient
Trojans.

Sta. Maria ad Martyres, or the Rotunda, once the Pantheon of
Agrippa, is in better preservation than any other monument of
ancient Rome. The interior is almost in its pristine conditi