and might invite a
traveller to survey it; but I, perhaps, wanted vigour, and thought I
wanted time.

The next stage brought us to Durham, a place of which Mr. Thrale bade me
take particular notice. The bishop's palace has the appearance of an old
feudal castle, built upon an eminence, and looking down upon the river,
upon which was formerly thrown a drawbridge, as I suppose, to be raised
at night, lest the Scots should pass it.

The cathedral has a massiness and solidity, such as I have seen in no
other place; it rather awes than pleases, as it strikes with a kind of
gigantick dignity, and aspires to no other praise than that of rocky
solidity and indeterminate duration. I had none of my friends resident,
and, therefore, saw but little. The library is mean and scanty.

At Durham, beside all expectation, I met an old friend: Miss Fordyce is
married there to a physician. We met, I think, with honest kindness on
both sides. I thought her much decayed, and having since heard that the
banker had involved her husband in his extensive ruin, I cannot forbear
to think, that I saw in her withered features more impression of sorrow
than that of time--

"Qua terra patet, sera regnat Erinnys."

He that wanders about the world sees new forms of human misery, and if
he chances to meet an old friend, meets a face darkened with troubles.

On Tuesday night we came hither; yesterday I took some care of myself,
and to-day I am _quite polite_. I have been taking a view of all that
could be shown me, and find that all very near to nothing. You have
often heard me complain of finding myself disappointed by books of
travels; I am afraid travel itself will end likewise in disappointment.
One town, one country, is very like another: civilized nations have the
same customs, and barbarous nations have the same nature: there are,
indeed, minute discriminations both of places and manners, which,
perhaps, are not wanting of curiosity, but which a traveller seldom
stays long enough to investigate and compare. The dull utterly neglect
them; the acute see a little, and supply the rest with fancy and
conjecture.

I shall set out again to-morrow; but I shall not, I am afraid, see
Alnwick, for Dr. Percy is not there. I hope to lodge to-morrow night at
Berwick, and the next at Edinburgh, where I shall direct Mr. Drummond,
bookseller at Ossian's head, to take care of my letters.

I hope the little dears are all well, and that my dear master and