s untracked, through a country of barrenness and
solitude, we came, almost in the dark, to the seaside, weary and
dejected, having met with nothing but water falling from the mountains
that could raise any image of delight. Our company was the young laird
of Col, and his servant. Col made every Maclean open his house, where he
came, and supply us with horses, when we departed; but the horses of
this country are small, and I was not mounted to my wish.

At the seaside we found the ferryboat departed; if it had been where it
was expected, the wind was against us, and the hour was late, nor was it
very desirable to cross the sea, in darkness, with a small boat. The
captain of a sloop, that had been driven thither by the storms, saw our
distress, and, as we were hesitating and deliberating, sent his boat,
which, by Col's order, transported us to the isle of Ulva. We were
introduced to Mr. Macquarry, the head of a small clan, whose ancestors
have reigned in Ulva beyond memory, but who has reduced himself, by his
negligence and folly, to the necessity of selling this venerable
patrimony.

On the next morning we passed the strait to Inch Kenneth, an island
about a mile in length, and less than half a mile broad; in which
Kenneth, a Scottish saint, established a small clerical college, of
which the chapel walls are still standing. At this place I beheld a
scene, which I wish you, and my master, and Queeney had partaken.

The only family on the island is that of sir Allan, the chief of the
ancient and numerous clan of Maclean; the clan which claims the second
place, yielding only to Macdonald in the line of battle. Sir Allan, a
chieftain, a baronet, and a soldier, inhabits, in this insulated desert,
a thatched hut, with no chambers. Young Col, who owns him as his chief,
and whose cousin was his lady, had, I believe, given him some notice of
our visit; he received us with the soldier's frankness, and the
gentleman's elegance, and introduced us to his daughters, two young
ladies, who have not wanted education suitable to their birth, and who,
in their cottage, neither forgot their dignity, nor affected to remember
it. Do not you wish to have been with us?

Sir Allan's affairs are in disorder, by the fault of his ancestors: and,
while he forms some scheme for retrieving them, he has retreated hither.

When our salutations were over, he showed us the island. We walked,
uncovered, into the chapel, and saw, in the reverend ruin, t