se songs; I wished to
know the meaning; but the highlanders are not much used to scholastick
questions, and no translations could be obtained.
Next day, Sept. 8th, the weather allowed us to depart; a good boat was
provided us, and we went to Raarsa, under the conduct of Mr. Malcolm
Macleod, a gentleman who conducted prince Charles through the mountains
in his distresses. The prince, he says, was more active than himself;
they were, at least, one night without any shelter.
The wind blew enough to give the boat a kind of dancing agitation, and,
in about three or four hours, we arrived at Raarsa, where we were met by
the laird, and his friends, upon the shore. Raarsa, for such is his
title, is master of two islands; upon the smaller of which, called Rona,
he has only flocks and herds. Rona gives title to his eldest son. The
money which he raises annually by rent from all his dominions, which
contain, at least, fifty thousand acres, is not believed to exceed two
hundred and fifty pounds; but, as he keeps a large farm in his own
hands, he sells, every year, great numbers of cattle, which add to his
revenue, and his table is furnished from the farm and from the sea, with
very little expense, except for those things this country does not
produce, and of those he is very liberal. The wine circulates
vigorously; and the tea, chocolate, and coffee, however they are got,
are always at hand. I am, &c.
We are this morning trying to get out of Skie.
XXIII.--To MRS. THRALE.
Skie, Sept. 24, 1773.
DEAR MADAM,--I am still in Skie. Do you remember the song,
"Every island is a prison,
Strongly guarded by the sea."
We have, at one time, no boat, and, at another, may have too much wind;
but, of our reception here, we have no reason to complain. We are now
with colonel Macleod, in a more pleasant place than I thought Skie could
afford. Now to the narrative.
We were received at Raarsa on the seaside, and after clambering, with
some difficulty, over the rocks, a labour which the traveller, wherever
he reposes himself on land, must, in these islands, be contented to
endure; we were introduced into the house, which one of the company
called the court of Raarsa, with politeness, which not the court of
Versailles could have thought defective. The house is not large, though
we were told, in our passage, that it had eleven fine rooms, nor
magnificently furnished; but our utensils were, most commonly, silver.
We went up into
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