--- l cooks, is verified in every kitchen in France.

We returned to Quillac's to dinner, which, according to our orders, was
composed in the English style, except a French dish or two for Mons.
Mangouit. This gentleman now appeared altogether as full-dressed as he
had before been in full dishabille. We exchanged much conversation on
Calais and England, and a word or two respecting the French Emperor. He
appeared much better informed than we had previously concluded from his
coxcomical exterior. He seemed indeed quite another man.

He accompanied us after dinner to the comedy: the theatre is within the
circuit of the inn. The performers were not intolerable, and the piece,
which was what they call a proverb (a fable constructed so as to give a
ludicrous verification or contradiction to an old saying), was amusing.
I thought I had some obscure recollection of a face amongst the female
performers, and learned afterwards, that it was one of the maids of the
inn; a lively brisk girl, and a volunteer, from her love of the drama.
In this period of war between England and France, Calais has not the
honour of a dramatic corps to herself, but occasionally participates in
one belonging to the district.

The play being over very early, we finished the evening in our own
style, a proceeding we had cause to repent the following day, as the
_Cote rolie_ did not agree with us so well as old Port. I suffered so
much from the consequent relaxation, that I never repeated the occasion.
It produced still another effect; it removed my previous admiration of
French sobriety. There is little merit, I should think, in abstaining
from such a constant use of medicine.

CHAP. III.

_Purchase of a Norman Horse--Visit in the Country--Family of
a French Gentleman--Elegance of French domestic Economy--Dance
on the Green--Return to Calais._

NOTWITHSTANDING the merited reprobation to be met with in every
traveller, of French beds and French chamberlains, we had no cause to
complain of our accommodation in this respect at Dessein's. This house,
though it has changed masters, is conducted as well as formerly, and
there was nothing in it, which could have made the most determined lover
of ease repent his having crossed the Channel.

After our breakfast on the morning following our arrival, I began to
consider with myself on the most suitable way of executing my
purpose--of seeing France and Frenchmen, the scenery and manners, to the
best