hat she had no visiting society at Calais, and
never went to the town but on household business; that the price of
every thing had doubled within four years, but that the late plenty, and
the successes of the Emperor, were bringing every thing to their former
standard; that her father payed very moderate taxes; her brother stated
about five Louis annually; but they differed in this point. The house
was of that size and order, which in England would have paid at least
thirty pounds, and added to this was a domain of between sixty and
seventy arpents.

The dinner, whether in compliment to me, or that things have now all
taken this turn in France, was in substance so completely English, and
served up in a manner so English, as almost to call forth an exclamation
of surprise. When we enter a new country, we so fully expect to find
every thing new, as to be surprised at almost any necessary coincidence.
This characteristic difference is very rapidly wearing off in every
kingdom in Europe. A couple of fowls, a rice-pudding, and a small chine,
composed our dinner. It was served in a pretty kind of china, and with
silver forks. The cloth was removed as in England, and the table covered
with dried fruits, confectionary, and coffee; a tall silver epergne
supporting small bottles of capillaire, and sweetmeats in cut glass. The
fruits were in plates very tastily painted in landscape by Mademoiselle;
and at the top and bottom of the table was a silver image of Vertumnus
and Pomona, of the same height with the epergne in the centre. The
covering of the table was a fine deep green cloth, spotted with the
simple flower called the double daisy.

I am the more particular in this description, as the dinner was thus
served, and the table thus appointed, without any apparent preparation,
as if it was all in their due and daily course. Indeed, I have had
occasion frequently to observe, that the French ladies infinitely excel
those of every other nation in these minor elegancies; in a cheap and
tasteful simplicity, and in giving a value to indifferent things by a
manner peculiar to themselves. Mademoiselle left us after the first cup
of coffee, saying, that she had heard that it was a custom in England,
that gentlemen should have their own conversation after dinner. I
endeavoured to turn off a compliment in the French style upon this
observation, but felt extremely awkward, upon foundering in the middle
of it, for want of more familiar acqua