monition.
We ordered an early dinner, and sallied forth to see the town. It has
nothing, however, to distinguish it from other provincial towns, or
rather sea-ports, of the second order. It has been compared to Dover,
but I think rather resembles Folkstone. The streets are irregular, the
houses old and lofty, and the pavement the most execrable that can be
imagined. There was certainly more bustle and activity than is usual in
an English or in an American town of the same rank; and this appeared to
us the more surprising, as we could see no object for all this hurry and
loquacity. To judge by appearance, the people of Calais had no other
more important business than to make their remarks upon us as we passed
their doors or shops. There was no shipping in the harbour, and even the
stock in the shops had every appearance of having remained long, and
having to remain longer in its fixed repose.
Being the market-day, we had the curiosity to inquire the price of
several articles of provision, and to compare them with those of their
neighbours on the opposite side of the channel. The market was well
stocked; there was an incredible quantity of poultry, lamb, butter,
eggs, and herbs. A couple of fowls were three livres, at a time that
they were seven or eight shillings in London; a young goose, two livres
twelve sous (2_s._ 2_d._). Lamb was sold as in England, by the quarter
or side, and was about sixpence English money per pound; beef about
fourpence halfpenny, and mutton (not very good) fourpence. Upon the
whole, the money price of every thing appeared about one-half cheaper
than in England; but whether this difference is not in some degree
compensated in England by the superiority of quality, is what I cannot
exactly decide. The beef was certainly not so good as that to which I
had been accustomed in London; but, on the other hand, in the progress
of my journey, the mutton and lamb, when I could get it dressed to my
wishes, appeared sweeter. The short feed gives it the taste of Welsh
mutton, but the consumption of it is scarcely sufficient to encourage
the feeders. The manner, moreover, in which these meats are employed and
served in French cooking, is such as not to encourage the feeder to any
superior care. Lean meat answers the purposes of _bouille_ as well as
the fat meat, and it is of little concern what that joint is which is
only to be boiled down to its very fibres. The old proverb, that God
sent meats, and the d
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