, only a pier and three
quiet hotels upon the bank, with a narrow road between their gardens and
the water. We chose the one farthest away, and were rowed down to it,
dabbling our hands in the water, and saying over and over again, "It is
the _Rhine_!"

But the hotel was full; so we filled our arms with luggage, and walked
back, up the dusty road to the second. A complacent waiter stood in the
doorway, with nothing of that hungry, eager air about him which betokens
an empty house; cool, comfortable-looking tourists, in enviable, fresh
toilets, stared at us from the windows; a pretty German girl upon the
balcony overhead was sketching the river and the Seven Mountains just
below, uttering little womanly exclamations at times, ending in "_ach_"
and "_ich_." After some delay, four single rooms were offered us; our
party numbered twelve; we left a portion of our company here; the others
went on--to the pier where we had landed, in fact, and with all meekness
and humility sued for accommodations of the little hotel here, which we
had at first looked upon with disdain. Fortunately, we were not refused.

When we came down the next morning, the sole occupant of the piazza
opening upon the garden--where our breakfast was spread--was a stout,
red-faced gentleman of general sleek appearance, who smiled a courteous
"good morning." He proved to be a Dutchman from Rotterdam, who had in
charge a couple of Malay youths sent to Holland to be
educated--bright-faced boys, with straight, blue-black hair, olive
complexions, and eyes like velvet. They were below us, walking in the
garden now.

"We have but just come from Holland," we said, after some conversation;
and, with a desire to be sociable, added that it was a very charming,
garden-like _little_ (!) country. (O dreadful American spirit!)

He smiled, showing his gums above his short teeth, and with a kind of
enraged humility replied,--

"It is nothing."

"It is indeed wonderful," we went on, trying to improve upon our former
attempt, and quoting a sentiment from the guide-book, "how your people
have rescued the land from the clutch of the sea!"

But his only reply was the same smile, and the "Yes?" so fatal to
sentiment.

"We visited your queen's 'House in the Wood,'" we ventured, presently.
"Is it true that the domestic relations of the royal family are so
unhappy?"

"O, the king and the queen are most happy," he replied. "You may always
be sure that when _he_ is in town