ollow the
universal custom. In one of the little shops of the town we found some
light, straw hats, with wide rims, for which we gave the extravagant
price of three cents apiece, trimming them afterwards to suit individual
taste, with ribbons, soft white lawn, and even mountain ferns and
grasses. We slung our wraps over our shoulders by a strap,--a most
uncomfortable arrangement by the way,--discarded crinoline, brought into
use the shabbiest gowns in our possession, packed hand-satchels with
whatever was necessary for a night upon the mountain, and then declared
ourselves ready for any disclosures of the future or the Righi.

A little steamer bore us from Lucerne to Weggis--a half hour's sail. We
found Weggis to be only an insignificant village, almost pushed into the
lake by the crowding mountain, and seeming to contain nothing but guides
and shabby horses. As we left the steamer, the open space between the
pier and the hotel facing it was crowded with tourists, waiting for or
bargaining with the guides for these sorry-looking beasts. No matter of
what age, sex, or condition in life you may be, if you visit
Switzerland, you will make, at least one, equestrian attempt; but in
truth, there is nothing to fear for even the most inexperienced, as a
guide usually leads each horse. The saddles for the use of ladies are
provided with a rail upon one side, and the nature of the paths are
such, that it would be impossible to go beyond a walk. The only danger
is from over-fatigue in descending the rocky, slippery way, often like
flights of stairs; then, exhausted from trying to hold back in the
saddle, dizzy from gazing into frightful depths, one might easily become
unseated.

When our guides were secured, one dejected beast after another was led
to the wooden steps, always provided for mounting and dismounting; we
climbed to our several elevations with some inward quaking, fell into
line,--for single file is the invariable rule,--and passed out of the
village by immediately beginning the ascent, describing, in our saddles
every known curve and angle, as the path became more and more rough and
precipitous. For guides we had a man with a rakish air, and--we judged
from his gait--a wooden leg, who tragically wrung the perspiration from
his red flannel shirt at intervals; a boy, with one of those open
countenances only saved from complete lateral division by the merciful
interposition of the ears, and a wizen-faced old man of so f